Teresie Hommersand grew up near Stavanger, a city known as the oil capital of Norway. She remembers eating supper every evening off plates with the logo of the national oil and gas company on them. Somehow she became the "green sheep" of the family. She has lived in Uganda, Oregon, and Australia. Learn more about her 13,700 km ride going from South Africa to Norway and her charity crowdfunding campaign on her Facebook page and Instagram. She has just finished the epic African leg of her journey and is now in Israel. This post is about her experience getting permission to cross the Suez Canal Tunnel on her touring bike.
History-making?
History-making?
I
think I've made a bit of history?!!!! I have cycled through the
Suez Canal Tunnel on my Soma Saga!!!!!!!! No one is allowed to do this!
I've only heard of a small group of Egyptians who's done it legally.
They had the support of an Egyptian ministry. Two other solo foreign
male cyclists did it as well but they both got
arrested afterwards as they did not have permission. Could I at least be
the first solo female cyclist to do this?
A process
It
was quite a process getting the green light. I came riding before
noon. Armed army personnel greeted me at the first checkpoint. "Hi! I'd
like to cycle through the tunnel."
"No. It is not allowed."
"OK." I then confidently handed over an eloquently formulated letter by The United Nations Environment Programme's 'Share the Road' Programme in support of my low carbon emission mission.
"No. It is not allowed."
"OK." I then confidently handed over an eloquently formulated letter by The United Nations Environment Programme's 'Share the Road' Programme in support of my low carbon emission mission.
There was some quick discussion between the two which I could only make out "It's the UN.". They picked up the phone to call a superior. The person at the other
end of the line picked up another phone. So did the commander above him
again. I don't know how far up in the system it
went, but down here they started looking at me positively hoping that I'd be
allowed. They were really impressed with how far I've come on my bike and supported what I was doing.
 |
| Making friends at the army checkpoint |
Setback
I
don't know how long I waited. For a good six hours at least. I
was really hopeful. If I didn't stand a chance, then why would they take
this long to get back to me? In the end they did reply --- with a 'NO'?!!! I was so
surprised. Why not?
They cited lack of traffic safety through the
tunnel and because the first 30 kilometers after
the tunnel has seen activity by militant groups present in
the region. Another army officer I spoke to was of the opinion that it
was not that dangerous – that the likelihood of anything happening was
very slim. "But if it did... One video of a
pretty girl in the wrong hands would have devastating effects on
Egyptian tourism [it's already suffering due to previous terrorist
attacks]." The officer who conveyed it was very sorry. So was I. I asked
again. I didn't want to give up. I was told that if I
didn't leave, I would not be allowed to pass through the tunnel at all.
 |
| Nuns that allowed me to stay overnight at their church. |
A New Plan for Tomorrow
I
was taken in by Greek Orthodox nuns that night. Before going
to bed I texted one of the guys from the Egyptian group that had cycled
through the tunnel. The army had refused them too, BUT THE POLICE had
helped them and escorted them through! How does that work? I thought the
army had greater authority than the police?
I went to sleep with a new plan not knowing how everything would turn
out. I'd either be allowed to cycle through or possibly be banned for
good from crossing the tunnel, and therefore not able to continue by
bike via the Middle East en route to Europe...
Tailwind!
I
woke up the next morning, feeling as if the whole day was completely
open ended. Just had to deal with what came my way in a good way. I went
to the police and presented my case. "Yes, of course, but join us for fool* and falafel for breakfast first!". Really? I couldn't believe it! Two hours later I rode up to the same army
checkpoint from the day before – followed by the police, I saw the same
army officer sitting there. I could tell he was not happy to see me.
"Hi! I have found a solution to the safety issue! The police will escort
me!'
 |
| The local police made it possible. Thank you. |
Interrogation
New
calls where made. I got an interrogation. 'Where have you been
since you left here yesterday?'. It wasn't enough to say "in town". 'Where in
town?" I had to provide names of the places. Show it on my map. I was
pleased with myself when I could present a selfie of me and the nuns;-)
'How much money do you have?'. Pictures of
every single page in my passport were taken. 'Where did you study? What
did you study? Where are your parents? Write down all the countries you
have cycled through, including the dates of entry and exit here'. 'Why
are you doing this?'. 'Because of climate
change. Because I care about the people and other species that are and
will be affected by it'... I passed the test. 'Ms. Teresie. I am happy to see you again'.
Uncertainty and confusion
Back
to the waiting game. We went through all my stuff. I showed him
everything I'm carrying. I think he was quite impressed
with my set-up. He certainly took a fancy to my knife! Haha. All this
time, I did not know, if I'd be allowed to cycle through the tunnel. I
wasn't sure if I dared to hope anymore.
"Yalla. Hæ!" I was suddenly told to get on my bike in the direction of the
tunnel. I didn't dare to clarify could I really go? I just moved. We came to a
second checkpoint. New faces. Another presentation of my passport and UN
letter. What did all of this mean? No one told
me anything! Was told to come inside and sit down. 'It's the first time
we have someone doing this. And it's a woman'.
My heart jumped. Could it
be? I got all emotional. 'Shukran! Thank you!'. It was a solemn moment.
I believe I was even shaking a little as
I got back on my bike and set the course for THE TUNNEL. It was unreal.
Still couldn't fully believe it. I said to myself I wouldn't until I
actually cycled into its depth. But now I was hopeful! And now I saw the
opening of the tunnel approaching me!
'STOP!!!!!!!!'.
'No, no, no, we have permission'. 'No, it's not allowed to cycle
through'. Three armed army soldiers in uniform blocked the entrance. The
police in the police vehicle shouted something to them in Arabic. And
then they turned around!
'What are you doing?' I said incredulously. They
drove off, leaving me stranded right there, five metres from the
entrance! 'What is happening?'. Was I not allowed in the end, after all
this?! Would I get arrested? After much confusion and more waiting while
curious cars and trucks passed this blocked lone
long distance cyclists in front of the tunnel, a police vehicle from the
other side of the tunnel came through. This was the one that was going
to escort me. And my three new armed friends had been filled in
meanwhile - she is good to go.
The Ride Under the Suez Canal
I
am forever grateful to EVERYONE involved in making this possible!
I can't believe my luck. They could all just have said no. What an
experience! It was with a whirlwind of emotions as I cycled through it.
Disbelief. Gratitude. Defiant joy. "Hell yeah!!!!!'" Tears. Fear of
getting a puncture down there. That I wouldn't be able
to breathe because of all the exhaust. That I wouldn't be able to cycle
up the incline at the end. Typical;-) When I saw the light in the end of
the tunnel, I started waiving to oncoming cars. I had the biggest
smile. I heartedly laughed to the shocked and
smiling army officer that greeted me as I came out of the tunnel on the
other side. 'Hi! :-D'.
[Editor's notes: * "Fool" or fūl, is a dish of cooked fava beans served with vegetable oil, cumin, and optionally with chopped parsley, garlic, onion, lemon juice, chili pepper and other vegetable, herb and spice ingredients.
The Suez Canal in Egypt is an artificial waterway that connects the Mediterranean Sea with the Red Sea. "The canal offers watercraft a shorter journey between the North Atlantic and northern Indian Oceans via the Mediterranean and Red Seas by avoiding the South Atlantic and southern Indian Oceans, reducing the journey by approximately 7,000 kilometres (4,300 mi).(Wikipeda)" There is some incredible history involving the canal and surrounding areas.]
[Editor's notes: * "Fool" or fūl, is a dish of cooked fava beans served with vegetable oil, cumin, and optionally with chopped parsley, garlic, onion, lemon juice, chili pepper and other vegetable, herb and spice ingredients.
The Suez Canal in Egypt is an artificial waterway that connects the Mediterranean Sea with the Red Sea. "The canal offers watercraft a shorter journey between the North Atlantic and northern Indian Oceans via the Mediterranean and Red Seas by avoiding the South Atlantic and southern Indian Oceans, reducing the journey by approximately 7,000 kilometres (4,300 mi).(Wikipeda)" There is some incredible history involving the canal and surrounding areas.]
